San Pedro de Atacama is a small village of 2,500 year round residents located in the altiplano of the Atacama Desert in northern Chile. Guests in San Pedro can wander through quaint streets full of restaurants, hotels and hostels, jewelry stores and outlets that book tours to the natural wonders that surround the town.
San Pedro de Atacama: Luxury and Affordability
San Pedro is over 6,000 feet high and like most of the Atacama Desert, there is never any rain. Water for irrigation is channeled from the Andes, but all drinking water must be trucked into town. During the last several years, many of the locals have been unable to continue living there as new luxury resorts have flourished and prices for food, drinking water and other commodities have soared. High end vacationers can find almost anything in San Pedro. Spas offer exotic treatments. Fresh fish shipped from the coast is on restaurant menus where world class chefs run busy kitchens offering the latest in gourmet cooking.
San Pedro isn't off limits, though, to backpackers or travelers watching their pesos. There are hostels that offer rooms that are not prohibitive for a modest budget. Local people also offer rooms in their homes for rent. It is wise to get reservations before coming into town, especially during the summer season, or to arrive as early as possible in the morning.
There is a slow pace and charm that invites road weary travelers to stay awhile. San Pedro is the town in Chile that most meets gringo expectations for amenities. Sipping cold drinks beneath the shade trees in the Plaza de Armas, or at one of the sidewalk cafes, it is easy to strike up conversations with visitors from around the world and let the afternoon pass by in comfort and agreeable company.
Valley of the Moon, Salar de Atacama, El Tatio Geyers and Toconao
San Pedro is at the heart of geographic beauty. Visitors spend days touring the region. Eerie rock formations can be explored at the Valley of the Moon. The Salar de Atacama, a large salt lake, features flocks of flamingos. Ever present smoke from volcanos can be seen in the far distance from the salar. On another tour, tourists leave early in the morning to witness the El Tatio Geysers at sunrise, which at 14,000 feet make up the highest geothermal area in the world. Archeological tours can also be arranged to Native American sites that date back 3,000 years ago.
The town of Toconao is a 1,000 peso bus ride away from San Pedro. The pretty Plaza de Armas is clean and inviting with a friendly tourist booth. The lovely Iglesia de San Lucas is located at the plaza, with a convent adjacent to it. Several small tallers, workshops for handmade sweaters, scarves, shawls, and mittens made from alpaca and llama hair, offer more affordable options than in San Pedro. Visit Luisa and her pet llama and walk through the "bosque" that runs from her shop, behind the town, and back to the plaza.
How to Get to San Pedro de Atacama
San Pedro de Atacama is a 20-hour bus ride from Santiago, an overnight trip from Arica and a few hours from Antofagasta. Flights are available to Calama, a large town about two hours away. Several buses leave for San Pedro from the airport daily.
Sources:
SanPedrodeAtacama, "Things to See." Retrieved August 28, 2010
LonelyPlanet. "Introducing San Pedro de Atacama." Retrieved August 28, 2010
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